Dales Way & Day 3

We woke up at the Kettlewell youth hostel feeling rested after a great night’s sleep. They fed us an amazing English breakfast and then we packed up and set off on our days walk which was 11 miles to Nethergill Farm just outside Oughtershaw.

Not long into our walk we met a farmer who told us a funny story about how he had been asked for directions once by some lost walkers. The farmer asked to see their map and the walkers pulled out a tea towel with a map of the Yorkshire Dales on it. That little story kept Zara and I laughing for a few miles.

Path flooded by what is normally a trickle of water

The route from Kettlewell to Starbotton had flooded the night before, but we took a gamble and walked the official route. Tiny streams had become large streams that we had to walk through. It made for some slow progress at some points but added an element of interest as we’ve walked this section a few times.

Zara crossing one of the little streams that thankfully had a bridge. When we walked this section earlier in May you didn’t have to use the bridge.

We had decided that our first stop would be in Buckden where we could stock up on some supplies as we knew we were about to go into a very remote area with no shops. Unlucky for us, the shop was closed, even though it should have been open. It was a little frustrating but we said, ok, we’ll go to the pub in Hubberholme.

When we got to the George Inn, I went inside to order drinks and sandwiches and was told we couldn’t have food. They had too many people there for food and stopped serving food at 14.00. We had arrived at 12.30, so that 30 minutes made a difference or maybe they were queuing to get into the pub at 12 when they started lunch service? Anyway we had a drink and stocked up on crisps and mini cheddars. Thankfully we had emergency rations packed for this scenario.

The walk from Hubberholme was stunning walking through Deepdale. I think this is where I would choose to picnic and not in Grassington, and it’s free!

We decided to stop in Deepdale for a break and Zara wanted to play in the shrinking river Wharfe. It was a lot smaller at this point so close to its source. Interestingly despite still being the river Wharfe this bit of the river is not in Wharfedale but instead Langstrothdale.

We followed the river to its source at Beckermonds and then headed up the road (which sucked) saying goodbye to the Wharfe.

River Wharfe source. Green Field Beck to the left and Oughtershaw Beck on the right.

We walked through Oughtershaw and then following the path to Nethergill Farm where we were wild camping for the night. The owners of the farm were amazing and for the sum of £30 they allowed us to camp and also provided us with microwave meals for the evening.